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What is Setsubun?
Setsubun, literally meaning “seasonal division” in Japanese, marks the day before the beginning of spring, known as Risshun or “the start of spring.” Traditionally, it is the day when winter ends and spring begins, symbolizing a change in seasons. Setsubun is celebrated with various customs aimed at warding off evil spirits and inviting good luck. The most famous ritual is mamemaki or “bean-throwing,” where people give ’em the beans–throwing roasted soybeans while chanting “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (“Demons out! Fortune in!”) to cleanse their homes of evil and misfortune.
What is Ehomaki?
Ehomaki, or “lucky direction roll,” is a type of sushi roll specifically eaten during Setsubun. The tradition involves eating the roll while facing the year’s “lucky direction” or eho, believed to bring good fortune. Ehomaki is a long, thick sushi roll that one is supposed to eat without cutting it, symbolizing the continuation of good luck throughout the year. This custom has become increasingly popular in recent decades, particularly since the 1970s when it was promoted by nori (seaweed) producers in Osaka.
The Meaning Behind Ehomaki Ingredients
Ehomaki typically contains seven ingredients, each associated with one of the seven gods of fortune or Shichifukujin in Japanese folklore:
- Kanpyo (Dried Gourd Shavings) - Represents longevity due to its resemblance to long life.
- Shiitake Mushrooms - Symbolize wealth and prosperity because of their rich, earthy flavor.
- Egg Omelet - Stands for health as the yellow of the egg represents the sun or the light of life.
- Eel or Anago - Associated with good luck in business and personal life, as they can navigate through life’s challenges.
- Shrimp - Represents long life due to their bent shape similar to an old person’s hunched back.
- Cucumber - Symbolizes purity and health, often linked to the green of nature and growth.
- Sakura Denbu (Sweetened Fish Paste) - Reflects the cherry blossoms’ transient beauty, reminding us to appreciate the moment.
These ingredients are not just for taste but carry deeper cultural significance, aiming to attract different forms of fortune.
How to Use a Makisu (Bamboo Mat)
Creating an ehomaki involves using a makisu, a sushi mat:
Preparation
Lay the rice mat flat on your work surface with the slats running horizontally.
Spread Rice and Ingredients
Place a sheet of nori on the mat, then spread sushi rice evenly over the nori, leaving a small margin at the top.
Lay your ingredients horizontally across the middle of the rice.
Roll
Lift the edge of the mat closest to you, rolling it over the fillings, and use the mat to compress the roll as you go, ensuring it’s tight but not too tight to squish the fillings.
Finish
After you’ve rolled it completely, gently shape it into a round or oval roll using the mat for pressure.
Practice is key to achieving a well-shaped ehomaki.
How to Eat Ehomaki
There are some special rules to follow when you eat ehomaki.
- Direction: For 2025, the eho or lucky direction is West-Southwest, slightly West (approximately 255 degrees clockwise). Face this direction while eating.
- Silence: Eat the ehomaki in silence. No talking, as it’s believed that speaking could disrupt the luck you’re trying to attract.
- Whole Roll: Traditionally, the roll should not be cut; you’re to eat it whole, symbolizing unbroken good fortune. However, if it’s too large, cutting into manageable pieces is acceptable in modern practice.
- Wish: Make a wish in your heart as you eat, enhancing the ritualistic aspect of the meal.
Need Rice?
If you ate an ehomaki and are wondering how you can eat one on the go, check out our article demonstrating how to use a temakizushi wrapper. If you’re on a quest to rice nirvana, then you might also like our how-to guide for preparing sushi.